Troubled Nepal

A town under siege
As we entered Lukla on our return from the trek, we were aware of the many soldiers and police in this small town. There had been many incidents throughout the country over the previous few months and the authorities were very much on edge. The airport at Lukla is a strategic importance, not only for the local economy but for the protection of the tourist industry which relies heavily on the income derived from trekking and mountaineering.

Army barracks
The army barracks were quite close to the airstrip which was next to our lodge, so we were able to watch them training and on guard. There were a number of bunkers with heavily armed soldiers only a few metres from where we sat eating our lunch. I was careful not to aim my camera in their direction.

Troubled Nepal

While several of the trekking group were playing cricket in the lodge garden, the little boy featured in the photo above came to our rescue and threw the ball back over the fence. I was able to take this photo as a poignant illustration of the troubles in this emerging nation. Framed by the barbed wire he so much wanted to join in our game, but was prevented by the barricade. The troubled nation of Nepal is desperately wanting to join the twenty-first century world, but the internal political turmoil is an effective barrier to progress.

Hope for the future
After we had left Nepal the situation came to a head and the king handed back power to the elected government. While the unrest is still evident some ten months later, it is a far more settled nation now than earlier in the year. There is hope for the future.

Building near Lukla

The final day of our trek in Nepal was rather shorter in walking terms than many other days. The walking was relatively easy going for the first hour or so after we left the village of Phakding. Closer to Lukla we passed some beautiful buildings, many of them trekking lodges.

This little part of Nepal relies heavily on tourism, especially the trekking and mountaineering pursuits. In Lukla itself there are many lodges and hotels, as well as many shops, trekking supply shops and a multitude of internet cafes. I didn’t bother to investigate any of these so I don’t what they were charging. My guess is that they were quite a deal more expensive than Kathmandu.

As we approached Lukla the steep climb up to the town really sapped my energy and I fell quite a way behind the other trekkers. It didn’t matter; I had plenty of time to complete that leg before lunch. As I slowed down I was able to observe the buildings, the people and environment more closely anyway.

I was also in a little pain due to the blisters on my toes and the sore on the left heel. After showering and taking off the blister pack I realised that it had developed a rather nasty open wound. I should have treated it sooner. Our trek leader was very good at applying a new bandage. This helped considerably but it was to cause me walking problems for the next few days.

The photo below shows the garden of the lodge where we stayed in Lukla. We had a relaxing lunch in the lovely sunshine with a wonderful mountain view as the backdrop. The photo features my daughter Rose who first inspired me to undertake this trek. To the right of her is the control tower of Lukla airport. The runway is behind the stone wall surrounding the lodge garden.

Related Article:

• Trek from Phakding to Lukla – extracts from my travel journal written during the trek.

Lukla, Nepal

Rural scene near Lukla

As we approached Lukla we saw more and more small farms. Every available flat – and not so flat – piece of land was utilised for growing vegetables. Not that we saw much growing when we were there, being the middle of winter and the dry season.

Rural scene near Lukla

Some terracing is evident in order to maximise the areas where food can be grown. Stones are used for fencing to keep out animals. There is no shortage of stones for use in making fences and buildings.

Occasionally, the flatter stones are used like cobblestones on the trekking path we took. The above photo shows one such section.

Our lodge in Phakding

Good weather
During each day we were fortunate to have sunny weather. While walking, the activity, especially when climbing, was enough to keep one warm – very warm. During such times I often walked in just trousers and T-shirt. I never got to the point where I wanted to remove the bottom half of my trousers and use them as shorts.

Cold mornings

The cold mornings were something else. It was very tempting to stay snuggled up in the very cosy sleeping bag. Washing and dressing first thing each morning was done very quickly. We would then rug up for breakfast, because in most of the lodges the fire had usually gone out before breakfast time. The warm jackets, beannies and gloves would come off during the first hour of walking after breakfast.

Cold evenings

As soon as the sun went down behind a nearby mountain the temperature would plummet in minutes. On came the jackets and beanies again. Then when the fire was lit in the dining room, all would gather nearby to keep warm. By bedtime the dining room would be almost too warm; it was tempting to linger before braving the icy dash into the bedroom and into the sleeping bag. With several lodges the bedroom section was in a separate building so one had to dash outside first. Sometimes the toilet was outside too.

Icicles on a bush

Icicles

Outside our dining room at Phakding there was a length of black poly-pipe. It had a fine spray of water leaking from a hole. The water had sprayed over a nearby bush and frozen into icicles. I guess it never thawed out because the water was barely above freezing to start with, and the bush was in shade for almost all of the day.

Colder at home

While it was very cold on the trek, I actually felt colder at home during our recent winter. Normally we have about a dozen frosts each winter here in Murray Bridge, South Australia. About once every four or five years light snow falls in the Adelaide Hills 60km to the west. In 2006, being a very dry year, our driest on record, we have had three or four periods of a dozen or more frosts on consecutive days. Below zero is unusual; it reached minus 3 to 5 on many occasions.

If we’d had this last winter before going to Nepal I might have been more acclimatised.

Near the village of Monjo, Nepal

One of the most enduring memories I have of the trek in Nepal was the unbelievable scenery. One could almost have taken a photo every step of the way. Towards the end of the trek, when breathing and the physical effort was less demanding, I did pause frequently to soak up the great scenery and to take photos. Now, some nine months later, looking at these photos amazes me still. To think I was actually there and saw those wonderful mountains.

Near the village of Monjo, Nepal

Between Monjo and Namche Bazar, Nepal

After the steep drop down the valley from Namche Bazar we followed the river valley through to the village of Monjo. Here the walking was generally easier and I was able to relax fully for the first time since the trek had begun. It was also the longest day of trekking as we went from Namche Bazar all the way ot Phakding, stopping only at Monjo for lunch.

Near Monjo, Nepal

By now I was developing a rhythm of walking for a few minutes, then stopping for a photograph or to take in the surroundings. I was far more relaxed and able to enjoy everything I saw. I no longer attempted to keep up with the others in the trekking group but set my own pace. The breathing was also getting far easier as we lost altitude.

Related articles:

• Trekking down from Namche Bazar – excerpts from my journal written during my trek.

• Trekking towards Phakding, Nepal – further excerpts fom my travel journal written during the trek.

Suspension Bridge, Nepal

I did not realise how high some of these bridges were at the time. It was only when I returned home and looked at photos like the one above that I realised some of them were very high above the rocks and water.

None of the bridges really worried me, but I was still a little cautious crossing them. Overall, I regarded it as all part of the Great Adventure.

Near Namche Bazar, Nepal

We trekked in the dry season, but there was still quite a deal of water around. Many small gullies have permanent water flows. The gullies in permanent shade sometimes have water flowing over the path and some of this water is frozen. On one occasion my daughter, who was some 20 metres in front of me, turned to warn me about the ice on the track. I stepped very carefully but the inevitable happened.

I fell.

Before I hit the ground, two of the guides had grabbed me and saved me from serious injury. I was shaken, but very grateful for their vigilance. They certainly looked after us.