Waterbirds near Goolwa in South Australia

Australian Pelican

Australian Pelican

On our recent visit to Goolwa in South Australia we went for a drive along the River Murray to the barrage near the mouth of the river. This barrage keeps the salt water from entering the river system at high tide.

This area is usually quite a good place for birding, though on this occasion there seemed to be just the usual birds one would expect. Nothing really exciting or out of the ordinary. Still, good birding days are usually like this. They make the really special days extraordinary.

Little Pied Cormorant

Little Pied Cormorant

Along this stretch of the river we saw plenty of Australian Pelicans, White Ibis, Straw-necked Ibis, Great Egrets, White-faced Herons, Pacific Black Ducks, Grey Teal, Little Pied Cormorants, Magpie Larks and Silver Gulls. Several Purple Swamphens stalked through the reeds while on the grassy areas a number of Masked Lapwings guarded their positions. Black Swans gracefully glided through the shallows and Singing Honeyeaters were the dominant species in the thick bushy areas along the sand dunes.

The Cockle Train, Goolwa, South Australia

Cockle Train, Goolwa, South Australia

Cockle Train, Goolwa, South Australia

The historic Port Goolwa played a very significant role in the early development of South Australia. When many areas along the River Murray were being settled by farmers there were few ways to get supplies to them. It was just as difficult to get their wool and wheat to the markets.

Cockle Train, Goolwa, South Australia

Cockle Train, Goolwa, South Australia

Port Goolwa was established in the very early years of settlement. Paddlesteamers took supplies up the River Murray to towns and farmers along the river. They then brought back loads of wheat and wool to Goolwa. Although the mouth of the river was just a few kilometres downstream from Goolwa it was generally unsafe for navigation. Their cargo was unloaded at Port Goolwa and transferred by train to Port Elliot where sea going ships carried the goods to other ports in Australia or to the growing European market. Economically this was vital to the growth of the new colony of South Australia. In the 1850s Victoria was in the grip of gold rush fever and South Australia was able to forge ahead supplying the other rapidly growing colonies.

Cockle Train, Goolwa, South Australia

Cockle Train, Goolwa, South Australia

Australia’s first steel railway line was built here from Port Goolwa to Port Elliot a few kilometres to the west. Today this historic line still has steam trains running regularly, but now the cargo is tourists from all over the world. The so-called Cockle Train takes its name from the abundance of the shell-fish cockles found along the beaches near here.

Schedule of services:

The Cockle Train now runs from Goolwa to Port Elliot and on to Victor Harbor. The trains run three times each way every day during Easter, long weekends and during most school holidays. It also operates every Sunday throughout the year.

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Port Goolwa, South Australia

Port Goolwa, South Australia

Port Goolwa, South Australia

Port Goolwa played a very important role in the early development of the young colony of South Australia. As the areas near River Murray were settled in the 1840s and 1850s, paddleboats started trading up and down the Murray-Darling river system.

They would travel upstream with supplies for the farmers and graziers along the rivers. They would then bring back items produced in these farmlands, mainly wheat and wool. Port Goolwa became, for a few decades, one of the busiest ports in Australia.

A railway was built to Port Elliot and goods transferred to ocean going ships. Some paddlesteamer captains braved the treacherous and ever shifting sands at the mouth of the River Murray just a few kilometres from Goolwa.

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Horseshoe Bay, Port Elliot, South Australia

Horseshoe Bay, Port Elliot, South Australia

Horseshoe Bay, Port Elliot, South Australia

After lunch at the Flying Fish Cafe we spent some time taking in the magnificent views over Horseshoe Bay, Port Elliot. This delightful bay is just a short distance from Victor Harbor and only an hour south from Adelaide and a similar time from our home in Murray Bridge.

Horseshoe Bay, Port Elliot, South Australia

Horseshoe Bay, Port Elliot, South Australia

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Lunch at Horseshoe Bay, Port Elliot

Horseshoe Bay, Port Elliot, South Australia

Horseshoe Bay, Port Elliot, South Australia

After visiting Waitpinga Beach and having morning tea at the picnic ground in the Newland Head Conservation Park, we drove back through Victor Harbor. This was the start of our return journey home. We stopped for a lunch break at Port Elliot. This little beachside town has become very popular with tourists and day visitors from Adelaide.

Horseshoe Bay, Port Elliot, South Australia

Horseshoe Bay, Port Elliot, South Australia

Horseshoe Bay is a very safe swimming beach which makes it very popular with families. The wide sandy beach is ideal for beach activities for children. We had lunch in the appropriately named Flying Fish Cafe. We just had to have their famous fish and chips for lunch. This was absolutely delicious though a little expensive I thought. The magnificent scenery overlooking the bay certainly added to our enjoyment.

Click on the photos to enlarge the image.

Horseshoe Bay, Port Elliot, South Australia

Horseshoe Bay, Port Elliot, South Australia