Archive for the 'Trekking' Category

The climb to Namche Bazar is cruel to the unprepared and unrelenting for everyone. The climb back down the valley is also fraught with problems. Going downhill, one has to be very careful to avoid tripping on rocks, slipping on gravel, twisting an ankle or falling on to rocks. There are sections of the path that are relatively easy walking, but there are other sections which are quite hazardous. The paths were also very dusty when we were there, and it helped to wear a scarf or handkerchief over the nose and mouth. Still the fine dust penetrated and clogged the nose, made the throat parched and settled in one’s lungs.

Near Namche Bazar, Nepal

We trekked in the dry season, but there was still quite a deal of water around. Many small gullies have permanent water flows. The gullies in permanent shade sometimes have water flowing over the path and some of this water is frozen. On one occasion my daughter, who was some 20 metres in front of me, turned to warn me about the ice on the track. I stepped very carefully but the inevitable happened.

I fell.

Before I hit the ground, two of the guides had grabbed me and saved me from serious injury. I was shaken, but very grateful for their vigilance. They certainly looked after us.

Scene overlooking Namche Bazar

Arriving at Namche Bazar one has the feeling that you have reached a little piece of civilisation in the midst of a mountainous wilderness. The rugged, towering mountains in all directions, the difficulty of travel, the lack of facilities and the overwhelming grandeur of the location becomes daunting to the senses, so it is with some relief one enters this little haven of normality.

Scene overlooking Namche Bazar

Not that this is a normal little village. Far from it. It does have many facilities not present in neighbouring villages, some of the trappings of civilisation we are accustomed to, like internet availability, and a medium level of comfort. What sets this village apart from thousands of others is its setting. It is situated at the junction of the main ‘road’ to Tibet in one direction (about seven days’ walk away), and the main route to Everest Base Camp in another. Few places can match its million dollar views.

Scene overlooking Namche Bazar

There are many astonishingly quaint buildings in the town of Namche Bazar. There seems to have been a special on blue paint at some stage! Wherever one looks there are lovely looking buildings. The town is very wealthy compared to the rest of Nepal, due mainly to the trekking, climbing and tourist trade. There was still much building work in progress while we were there. Electricity comes from a nearby hydro scheme.

Namche Bazar is not an easy town to wander around in due to the steepness of the hills on which it is built. The longest way, using the terraced paths, is usually the easiest, and often the quickest to get from one point to another. Locals, however, often seem to shun the easy routes. I guess that they are much fitter than me.

Near Namche Bazar, Nepal

On the descent from Tengboche to Namche Bazar not many of us had much of an appetite at lunch time. This is one of the side-effects of altitude. We just nibbled at our food despite it being quite delicious.

After lunch our guide gave me two options. The rest of the group were going back to Namche Bazar by another route, via the Everest View Hotel. He gave me the option of going straight back to Namche Bazar, a shorter route and with very little climbing. I chose the easier route. My feet were causing me some concern and the energy levels were drained. It was a slow, steady plod all the way back. I am not sure what the guide who accompanied me thought, but he was very patient with my slow progress and frequent stops for photos – and rest.

As it turned out, I arrived a full hour before the rest of the group.

Near Namche Bazar, Nepal

Although we were now descending towards Namche Bazar, there was another very steep climb left on the trek. After the steep descent from Tengboche there is a crossing over a suspension bridge over the river at the bottom of the valley. It is then another hard slog back to the top again. I’m convinced someone sharpened the climb in the intervening 24 hours! It seemed nowhere near as steep on the way down the day before.

Again I had to let the group go ahead. I set my own pace, steadily getting slower as the climb progressed. As we approached our lunch time destination I found the going particularly hard. It was through sheer persistence and determination that I finally made it. The legs didn’t want to be lifted up one more rock, or take one more step. One of the guides kept by me the whole time; he knew I was struggling, but he kept on encouraging me to keep going. The rest of the trekking group had almost finished their drinks by the time I arrived for lunch. So what – I made it, didn’t I? I also have the satisfaction of achieving the climb.